Chiang Rai
Chiang Rai exemplifies successful crop substitution: 1970s Royal Projects replaced opium cultivation with coffee/tea, now hosts Thailand Biennale on dark heritage.
Chiang Rai sits at the apex of the Golden Triangle—the 200,000 km² region where Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos meet at the Mekong—and demonstrates how deliberate crop substitution can reshape an entire regional economy. For decades, this mountainous border zone produced up to 200 tonnes of opium annually, cultivated primarily by Hmong, Karen, and other highland minorities. The Royal Projects initiated in the 1970s offered an alternative: training farmers in organic tea and coffee production.
The transition worked. Today Sop Ruak, where the rivers converge, hosts an opium museum rather than opium fields. The Thai side of the Golden Triangle has become a case study in successful crop substitution, though the broader region remains problematic—Myanmar overtook Afghanistan as the world's largest opium producer in 2023, and synthetic methamphetamine trafficking through the area now generates $61 billion annually.
Chiang Rai has layered a creative economy onto its agricultural base. The 2023-2024 Thailand Biennale, themed "The Open World," used sites like the Mae Fah Luang Art and Cultural Park—a former opium trade arsenal repurposed as an educational institution—to explore the region's complex history. Works like "The Opium Parallax" mapped trade networks, while local actors now run opium history museums. The province embodies how dark heritage can become cultural capital when the underlying economy has genuinely transformed.