Soroca District

Soroca presents a paradox: Moldova's poorest country status coexisting with palatial Roma mansions copying St. Peter's Basilica, the U.S. Capitol, and the Bolshoi Theatre. Located 160 kilometers north of Chișinău on the Dniester River, this district of 21,135 inhabitants (2024 census) is popularly known as the 'Romani capital of Moldova.' On 'Gypsy Hill,' elaborate homes rise above broken sidewalks—architectural aspirations funded by remittances from Roma communities working across Europe.

Yet many palaces now stand abandoned. 'The owners have died or gone overseas,' residents explain. Buildings large enough to house dozens remain empty for years; some lack indoor plumbing despite their ornate facades. The architectural styles mirror destinations where residents have historically sought work—an Italian dome here, an American colonnade there. During Soviet times, Soroca's Roma lived at standards exceeding most Moldovans; the post-Soviet era transformed remittance wealth into conspicuous display, then economic exodus hollowed out the community.

The district offers historical depth beyond the modern spectacle. Soroca Fortress, built by Stephen the Great in 1499 and rebuilt as a perfect stone circle with five bastions between 1543-1546, recently received EU restoration funding. With 21-meter walls over 3 meters thick, it anchored Moldova's Dniester defense line. Tickets at 30 MDL make it accessible; visitors walk ramparts once guarded against Ottoman incursions. The fortress represents what endures; the palaces represent what migration both creates and empties.