Biology of Business

Annual Report 2023

Hermès International

Hermès Finance (2024)

TL;DR

€15.2B revenue, 40.5% margin—highest in luxury. Birkin bags outperformed S&P 500 for 35 years. Costly signaling: the waste is the point.

By Alex Denne

A $15,000 handbag that outperformed the S&P 500 for 35 years—this is costly signaling perfected. Hermès' €15.2 billion revenue and 40.5% operating margin (highest in luxury) prove that artificial scarcity isn't just marketing; it's a business model. Like peacock tails that handicap survival to signal genetic quality, Birkin bags require $10,000-$20,000 in prerequisite purchases before a customer is even considered—the cost itself is the signal. The 'waiting list' is largely fiction; bags are selectively offered through an opaque system that reinforces exclusivity. Each Birkin requires 18-20 hours of craftsmanship by a single artisan, making production constraints partially genuine but strategically maintained below demand. The result: bags appreciating 120% over retail, prices from $12,000 to $450,000, and a brand that survived LVMH's 2010 hostile takeover attempt by rallying 100 family heirs to consolidate 67% ownership. Hermès demonstrates that costly-signaling mechanisms work identically in human luxury markets as they do in sexual selection: the waste is the point.

Key Findings from International (2024)

  • €15.2 billion revenue in 2024 with 40.5% operating margin—highest in luxury industry
  • Birkin bags require $10,000-$20,000 in other purchases before customers are considered eligible
  • 18-20 hours of craftsmanship per bag by single artisan creates genuine production constraints
  • No official waiting list exists; bags selectively offered through opaque 'wish list' system
  • Birkin ROI outperformed gold and S&P 500 over 35 years; some bags appreciate 120% over retail

Related Mechanisms for Annual Report 2023

Related Organisms for Annual Report 2023

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